Savvy Tips
Hypoglycemia in Dogs | How to Housebreak Your Puppy (PDF) | Letter to Owner

I am not a vet. These are only my own educated suggestion. We advise you to do your own research.

I know that it's possible with the excitement of your new family addition some of the things I explained to you will be forgotten.
Should you have any questions please feel free to call anytime day or night. 1-877-454-8464

FIRST AND FOREMOST, PLEASE! DO NOT TAKE YOUR PUPPY NEAR ANY OTHER DOG. DO NOT TAKE IT TO THE PARK OR ANY PLACE OTHER DOGS GO UNTIL IT HAS RECEIVED ALL OF ITS VACCINATIONS. AS IMMUNITY VARIES WITH EACH DOG, PROTECT IT WELL UNTIL IT'S AT LEAST 17 WEEKS OLD.

POTTY TRAINING
One of the main concerns when acquiring your new puppy is the potty training issue.

• The key to this task is praise, understanding, patients and observation.
• The quality of accomplishment on this task depends largely on the owner.
• Your puppy will alert when it needs to eliminate. Pay attention to the signs, it will sniff, squat, circle, and sometimes even alert at the door.
• At this point it's very important that you pick up the puppy and place them on the newspaper, in the litter box or outside.
• When the puppy completes its task, give him much praise and love. Love and praise is all he needs, avoid treats.
  Remember to place your puppy on the paper, in the litter box or outside immediately each time he wakes up and before he goes to sleep at night.
• A good way to judge how long your puppy can wait to eliminate himself is to weigh the puppy and add one. For example if your puppy weighs 2.5 pounds and you add one it will be able to wait approximately 3.5 hours before it will need to eliminate again.
• When it comes to the big business you can be assured it will need to eliminate within 5-30 minutes after eating.
• This is only a way to judge it's not foolproof. The key is observation - consistency, observation - consistency and consistency - observation.
• Remember your puppy is only a baby at this point. As it matures it will be able to wait longer.
• Crating your puppy will aid in your potty training efforts. Animals usually do not choose to potty where they sleep.
  The crate will help teach bladder control. After you have been consistent and patient and find that you are still having difficulty, there are potty training aides available at the pet store.
• Avoid the classic potty pad in the early training stages( they tend to tear these up and eat the cotton).
  There is a liquid you can purchase that mimics another dogs scent. This will direct your puppy to potty in that spot to cover the other dogs scent.

You should have been provided with a booklet offering suggestions and tips on the "How to" for your puppy. You may find this information helpful. Please read and make your teaching decisions on what works with your lifestyle.

CRATING
I know most people think Crating is cruel so lets put in your terms. When you want peace and quiet and just feel like you need to relax, where do you go? Your bedroom. Just think of the crate as your puppies’ bedroom. The crate provides the safety and security your puppy needs to feel comfortable.

• The crate aides in potty training, security and the most needed safety while traveling in a vehicle.
• If you’re consistent with your crate training, you'll soon see your puppy put himself in bed at night.
• The crate also lets you know the puppy just wants time to himself.
• Remember to cover the crate with the towel or blanket for sleeping at night.

So now you ask "What size crate do I need?" The crate should be large enough for your dog to stand with about 2-3 inches of clearance on the top and about 4-5 inches of clearance front to back. If the crate is too large your puppy will not feel the security it requires.

Most of the time the medium-size crate will provide what the puppy needs into adulthood. If you purchase a medium crate from the beginning, you can help to fill the space with a stuffed animal, small hand towel or a baby blanket. Remember to line the bottom with newspaper for sanitary purposes.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT: In the then event of a disaster (fire, earthquake...) the crate will provide for the "Dash and Go" option. These little animals seem to have a sense for these events, they usually run and hide, putting you and them in danger. Can you think of a better way to provide safety at this time?

FEEDING
At this point your puppy is on a free feeding schedule. This means food and water is left available at all times. Most of you were provided with Eukanuba puppy food. During the transition it's best to make "Mama Food" for your new pup. To make "Mama Food" simply soak the dry food with water until fluffy...add some frozen mixed vegetables and some kind of gravy or gravy based puppy canned food. You should remain on this feeding schedule for about 2 weeks leaving dry food available at all times.

If you choose to use a different dog food simply mix this Eukanuba puppy food slowly with the brand you choose to use. Start by adding a little of your brand to the mix gradually, increasing your brand and decreasing the mixture. This should be done over a 5-7 day period. The key is gradually, to prevent stomach upset and diarrhea.

You have been supplied with NUTRI-STAT/NUTRI-CAL. The NUTRI-STAT/NUTRI-CAL is to be given 3-4 times daily, approximately a ½ inch on your finger. You'll continue this for 5-7 days to prevent hypoglycemia in the transition.

It is common for dogs to get depressed during the transition. Remember they are being separated from all familiar smells, sounds, voices, litter mates and familiar surroundings. During his time insufficient eating can lead to hypoglycemia. After the transition period use the NUTRI-STAT/NUTRI-CAL when needed.

If your puppy does not run to greet you or seems to be excessively sleepy, eyes are rolling or head is floppy give give 3cc of Karo Syrup by mouth! *BEFORE YOU GIVE KARO SYRUP MAKE SURE YOUR PUPPY IS RESPONDING WELL ENOUGH TO SWALLOW!!! Wait two minutes. If you do not see a change within the two minutes give a ½ inch NUTRI-STAT/NUTRI-CAL. TAKE THE PUPPY TO YOUR VETERINARIAN IMMEDIATELY!!!! THIS CONDITION CAN BE LIFE THREATENING!!!!

BRUSHING - BATHING & TEETH
Your puppy needs to be brushed daily to prevent matting.

• When your puppy is young use a pin brush. At this point were trying to get the puppy used to the touching.
• Pay particular attention to the stomach area and feet. Once this is accomplished you can transfer to a fine de-matting brush. Make sure the pins aren't very sharp.
• Your puppy needs his teeth brushed too.
• Remember to use puppy toothpaste.
• Human toothpaste can be toxic to your animal.
• This task should be completed before each bath. It helps to freshen breath, loosen tarter and helps to prolong semi-annual dental cleaning visits.
• Bathing your puppy is a good bonding experience.

Simply wet the puppy down, apply dog shampoo (avoid getting shampoo in the eyes), lather well then rinse well. Rinse again to make sure you have removed all of the shampoo. Towel dry and remember to drain the ears.

To drain the ears simply grab the muzzle and point its nose to the ceiling, grasp the tip of the ear pull down and back gently wiggling from side to side.

You were provided with a dental rope, although this appears to be a toy, in all actuality it is part of great dental hygiene. The fringed ends act as dental floss, sliding between each tooth during tug-of-war. The firm middle provides a safe source to chew, loosening and removing the juvenile teeth. It will provide hours of fun and entertainment for you and your pet.

• Blow dry on low, moving dryer constantly to prevent burning.
• They should be bathed every 2-4 weeks.
• Tushie washing can be done in between regular baths.
• Too much bathing can lead to dry skin, skin problems and brittle hair.
• Nail trimming, sanitary Shave, ear hair pulling and draining the anal glands is best done by a professional.

TOYS
Toys are very important part of your puppy life. They provide hours of fun entertainment for both you and your pet. Just remember pet safety is the most important thing.

To prevent choking...

• Make sure your squeaker toys do not have a removable squeaker.
• Make sure you're stuffed animals have felt eyes.
• Make sure your frisbee is the flexible kind not the hard plastic.
• Make sure the balls you supply are no smaller than a tennis ball.
• Make sure all the plastic toys are firm rubbery plastic and not the thin rubbery kind.
• Bones should be a Soft Nyla bone or Booda Bone.
• If you use raw hide bones make sure they are the burrito type (retriever rolls) not the dumb bell or chip type.
• Cleanliness is important, make sure to wash their toys regularly.

LEAVING YOUR PUPPY ALONE
When you leave your puppy alone remember to keep him confined to a small area (laundry room, bathroom, exercise pen or child play pen) with his crate, food, water, toys and newspaper or litter box at all times. Do not use a puppy bed in this area, only his crate lined with newspaper (after potty training is achieved you can place a crate liner pad in his crate). Place an article in the crate that contains your scent. If you wear cologne or perfume put a little on an article you can give to your puppy. An old pillow case or T-shirt with your scent works well too.

Talk radio will help provide noise and companionship while you're gone. They may not be able to see you but at least they can hear the voices. Remember the saying, "It's a Dogs Life", is referring to the relaxation and rest a dog does so well! They will sleep most of the day.

Exercise is important too, so when you arrive home spend some quality time playing and loving your new family addition.

Please Remember This Is A Life Long Commitment !